1. The Classic: Tacos Fenix Plastered
with Coca-Cola logos, this stand may seem indistinguishable from the
many others in Ensenada, but it's the oldest in town. The mako shark
used in the fish tacos is dense and flavorful, the shrimp are plump and
toothsome and the batter turns out perfectly crisp. The fish is so good,
in fact, that toppings are almost extraneous. Corner of Calle Juárez and Calle Espinoza, Ensenada
2. The Saucy Choice: Tacos La Floresta This
stand in downtown Ensenada serves excellent fish and shrimp tacos,
accompanied by a wide array of salsas and toppings. These include
pickled onions, chipotle mayonnaise, whole pickled jalapeños and long
slivers of fresh cucumber. The sauces are made daily by the members of
an extended family who take turns running the stand. Corner of Calle Juárez and Avenida Floresta, Ensenada 3. The Myth Maker: Taqueria y Mariscos Adriana The
oldest taco stand in San Felipe is painted turquoise and has been run
by Maria Soledad Solorio since the mid-'80s. While no one knows which
stand inspired the founder of the popular U.S. taco chain Rubio's, many
consider this the most likely contender. Ms. Solorio's crisp fried
fish—which customers enjoy at a long picnic table or a folding table
covered with a colorful blanket—is perhaps the best in town. Ave. Malecón 196, San Felipe 4. The Non-Conformist: Tacos Marco Antonio This
informal eatery may be in the heart of Ensenada, but its offerings are
far from local classics. Proprietor Marco Antonio serves his tacos
filled with guisados (stews) like siete mares, a mix
of octopus, shrimp, clams, mussels and other seafood; tuna cooked in a
cilantro-based sauce; and specialty items like fried fish skin. The
tacos are sold from folding tables in a large courtyard in front of Mr.
Antonio's old cannery. Avenida Rayon between Calle Tercera and Calle Cuarta, Ensenada 5. The Innovator: Mariscos El Mazateño Although
this enormous open-air restaurant in Tijuana's Mesa Otay neighborhood
is mainly a Sinaloan seafood spot, its most popular dish is Tijuanan:
the camarón enchilado, aka the "mazateña." This taco of shrimp
cooked in a chile de arbol sauce is so popular, it has been copied by
cooks all over the city. Calzada Tecnológico, No. 473-E, Tomas Aquino, Tijuana; 52-664-607-1377 6. The Immigrant: Mariscos Ruben Specializing
in seafood dishes from the state of Sonora, this food truck has
occupied the same downtown Tijuana corner for more than 20 years.
Co-owner Mirta Rodriguez makes an exceptional manta ray taco, and a
taquito of smoked marlin topped with chipotle cream and avocado sauce.
Her homemade salsas are among the best in town. Corner of Calle Octava and Quintana Roo, Tijuana 7. The Eccentric: Tacos Kokopelli Oso
Campos, the chef behind this quirky food truck, creates inventive
dishes that are like nothing else in Baja. The "kraken" contains grilled
octopus covered in a Mexican five-herb pesto; the "gringo en
vacaciones," shrimp in a bright red chile sauce. The truck itself boasts
bright orange walls, a thatched roof and a disco ball. Boulevard Sánchez Taboada between Misión de San Diego and Misión de Santo Tomás, Tijuana 8. The Modern Master: Erizo Fish Market A
bright, airy seafood restaurant, with unadorned tables and a mosaic of
salvaged wood decorating the walls, Erizo offers a long list of
seafood-based tacos. They showcase chef Javier Plascencia's unique use
of flavors, cooking techniques and ideas from across the globe. There's
the "machaca de marlin," made from smoked swordfish cooked in onions,
tomatoes, chilies and cilantro; a taco filled with tender oysters in
tempura batter; a taco of sea urchin sautéed with onion, Serrano chile
and tomatoes; and many more. Ave. Sonora 3808, Tijuana; 52-664-686-2895
